Sewing-machine f



(No Model.) 4'Sheets'-Sheet 1.

A. SEAVER.

I SEWING MACHINE FOR L ASTING BOOTS OR'SHO ES. No. 487,023. PatentedNov. 29, 1892.

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WlTNESSES: k 6% 3.5%. INVENTDFQJ (No Model.) 4 Sheets-8heet 2.

A. SHAVER. SEWING MACHINE POR-LASTING BOOTS 0R SHOES.

No.48'7,023 Patented Nov. 29,1892.

(No. Model.) 4 Sheets Sheet 3.

A. SHAVER. SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS ORYSHOES.

No. 487,023; Patented Nov. 29,1892.

IMILW Y f i!.!.!!!V WITNESSES: h 4 q 0 INVENTQRI;

(No Model.) 4 Sheets-Sheet 4.

' SHAVER.

SEWING MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS 0R SHOES.

No. 487,023. Patented Nov. 29, 1892.

' l NETE "rains AUGUSTUS SEAVER, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWlNG-MACHINE FOR LASTING BOOTS R SHOES.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 487,023, dated November29, 1892.

Application. filed November 27., 1891. Serial No. 413,179- (No model.)

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, AUGUSTUS SEAVER, of Boston, in. the county ofSutfolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and usefulImprovements in Sewing-lVIachines for Lasting Boots or Shoes, ofwhichthefollow ing is a specification.

This invention relates to sewing-machines for lasting boot or shoeuppers, and particularly the uppers of welted boots or shoes in ,whichthe edge of the inner sole is channeled or cut to form a lip adapted tobe turned outwardly from the outer or under surface of the .outer sole,one side of said lip forming a shoulder supporting a portion of the edgeof the upper and the inner edge of the welt-during the operation ofattaching the upper and.

. welt to the inner sole by stitches which pass through the welt, upper,and that portion of tached to the inner sole 0 the inner sole known asthe between substance, which is the material of the sole interveningbetween the above-described cut madein the edge of the sole 'and thebottom of a stitch receiving channel made in the outer face of the sole.I

The invention has for its object to provide a machine adapted to attachthe edge of the upper to the lip above described by means of acontinuous line or series of stitches constituting fastenings for theupper, which take the place of lasting-tacks usually employed,

and by reason of the fact that they are nonmetallic and offer nomaterial resistance either to the needle which subsequently attaches thewelt or to a knife that is used in trimming ofi the superfluous portionsboth of the upper and of the lip, enable the welt to be attached to theupper and inner sole immediately after the operation of lasting.

- Heretofore when the upper has been ata welted boot or shoe by means oflasting-tacks, the said tacks are necessarily so arranged that ifallowed to remain in place during the operation of sewing the welt tothe upper and inner sole they would obstruct and injure theneedle tosuch an extentas to entirely prevent its operation. Hence it isnecessary after securing the upper by the lasting-tacks to lay aside thelastand the upper thereon until the upper has set orv acquired asufiiciently-permanent form toenable it to remain on the last after theremoval of the tacks, it being necessary to remove the tacks before thewelt can be sewed to the upper and inner sole. WVhen, however, the upperis attached to the inner solo by stitches in accordance with myinvention there is no necessity of this delay, because thestitches donot interfere with the operation of sewing on the welt. Hence the weltcan be applied immediately after the upper is lasted.

My invention consists in the several improvements. hereinafter describedand claimed, whereby the stitch-forming mechanism of a-swing-machiue isadapted to c0nnect the upper of a welted boot or shoe to the lip at theouter edge of the inner so'le.'

In the accompanying drawings, formingpart of this specification, Figure1 represents a side elevation of a sewing-machine organized toconnectthe upperof a welted boot or shoe to the lip on the inner sole thereof.Fig. 2 represents an end elevation of the machine.

Fig. 3 represents an elevation of' the mechan- 1 ism used to vary thelength of the stitch. .Fig. 4 represents a'section on line 4 4, Fig. 3.Fig, 5 represents a section on the line 5 5, Fig. 3.

Fig. 6 representsa detail hereinafter referred to. Fig. 7 repi-esentsavertical section of the work-support and of an upper and inner $016 on alast and supportedby the work-support, together with an elevation of theneedle, castoff, presser-foot, awl, and looper. resents a perspectiveview of the pres'ser-foot. Fig. 9 represents a side view of the devicescomposing the automatic stop-motion. Fig. 10 represents a section online 10 1,0,Fi-g. 9.

Fig. 11 represents a view of the work-support The same letters ofreference indicate,.the

.description,'it being sufficient to observe that the needle isrecipr'ocated vertically and oscil lated laterally and has alateralwork-feeding Fig. .8 rep-j movement while it is elevated and passedthrough the work, the operation of forming the stitches being in norespect diiferentfrom that of theNational machine above referred to.

In adapting the machine to sew the upper e of a lasted boot or shoe tothe lip f at the edge of. the inner sole f I provide the machine witha'work -support 9, adapted to bear on the under side of the lip f saidwork-support being formed to support the lip in such manner as-to permitthe stitches to pass through the upper and the lip, the location of thestitches bein gindicated bythe black line passingthrough the upper andlip in Fig. 7. The form of the work-support must be such as to permitthelatoral or work-feeding movement of the needle and to support-thework, not only beside the path along which the needle moves, butalsoatone or both ends bf; said path. In other words, the work-support must beat one or both ends wide enough to support the lip f, so that said lipwill not yield and bend downwardly when the awl in its'descent strikesthe upper side of the lip. I fin'd a suitable form of the worksupport isthat shown in Fig. 11, the WOl'k:

support comprisinga narrow portion 2,10- cated at one side of the pathof the needle when the latter is making. its work-feeding movement andhaving an ear or projection 3 at the ends of said path, said projectiongiving the work-support suficient width to enable it toprevent the-lip ffrom yielding to the pressure of the awl. The work-support is: hereshown as located at the .iuner side of the.

needle. At the opposite or outer side of the needle is a plate or shieldm, which is attached to the-ne'edle-carrier 0,.a-nd projects upwardlytherefrom, far enough to be interposed; betweemthe needle and the innersole, and to: prevent the needle from catching the lip f forming theouter side of the usual channel made in the face of the inner sole forthe reception of the stitches that secure the welt to the upper andinner solo. The. shield m,. moving laterally with the needle and bearingagainst the work, aids the needle in feeding the work.

I have provided a presser-foott'of peculiarform, adaptedto co-operatewith thework- I support, the presser-foot being made correspond-inglynarrow a'nd'formed to-bear on that part of the uppere'which lies on theouter side of the lip f, the'presser-foot bearing on: the upper at oneside of theshoulder formedby the edge of'the 'nain portion of the innersoleand'directly over the work-support. The resser-foot i has a slot11', which isarranged "to receive the awl when the latter-isdescendingand the needle when the latter is ascending. The presser-foottherefore bears upon: the upper at opposite sides of thepoint throughwhich the awl and needle pass, sothat the presser-foot supports theupper and the lip f against the upward thrust of theneedle, the. lipbeing thereby prevented firombeingbent 1 upwardly when the needle isrising topass through the lip and upper. It will be seen from theforegoing that thework-support and presser-foot, formed as f and theportion of the upper bearing therewith the direction of movement of theneedle and awl and to prevent said lip and upper from being displaced bythe downward pressure of the awl and by the upward pressure of theneedle. Hence the stitch-forming mechanism is enabled to connect theupper and the lip by acontinuous series or chain of stitches. Theelevation'of the work-support is such that there is sufficient roombelow its upper end to accommodate the entire width of the inner sole,as shown in Fig. 7, so that the lip f and the part of the upper bearingthereon canoccupy a substantially-horizontal position between thework-support and presser-foot while the inner sole occupies-anearlyvertical position. b

Inthe operation of lasting boot or shoe uppers it is customary for theoperator tograsp the edge of the upper with a pair of pinchers and topull the edge of the upper by said to conform the upper to the shape ofthe last, the upper having been heretofore attached to -the inner soloto retain the stretch thus imparted to the upper by means oflasting-tacks driven through 'the upper into the inner sole. In theoperation of lasting by means of the machine forming the subject of thisapplica- 1 tion pinchers are or may be employed for the same purpose,and to enable the operator to properly manipulate the pinchers 10, Fig.7, I provide a rest .or hearing, which is arranged in position tosupport the-foot p, projecting from the under jaw of the pinchers, saidrest being arranged so that the operator, holding point below theworksupport, may cause the -jawsof the pinchers to grasp the edge of theupper at one side of the work-support and presser-foot, as shown in Fig.'7, and exert the desired pull or tension'on the upper to draw .it overand. adjust it to the last and upon the lipf by rocking or swinging thepinchers upon the rest, thefootp' bearingon saidrest and constitutingthe fulcrum upon which the pinchers move. The said rest, as here shown,is-a portion of the work-support g, the latter being made ofconsiderable width below its work-supporting upper end, so that theoperator can press thefoot 10' against it and allow said foot to movealongwhen the work is being fed, it being necessary for the pinchers toupper adjacentto that in which the last stitch was formed in suitablerelation to the lip f. The needle-carrier 0 is or may boot theconstruction commonly used in the National machine. As here shown, thesaid carrier is a-fiixed to a rock-shaft 0', which is rocked orby-suitable connections with the driving-shaft of the machine, ashereinafter described, the

needle-bar a} and cast-off bar being fitted pinchers over upon the innersole sufliciently.

move with the work to hold the part of theabove described, are adaptedto hold the lip on in a position substantially at right angles thehandles of the pinchersin one hand at a 1 I 30 *oscillated in bearingsinthe supporting-frame to move longitudinally in guides in the saidcarrier 0 in the usual manner and reciprocated by means of a rock-shaftq,.which is connected with the driving-shaft of the machinein anysuitable way, and has at-one'end an arm q, connected by a link q withablock or head qiaffixcd to the needle-bar, said block being adapted toslide between blocks qtq on the cast-oft bar I), this being the usualand well-known mechanism for operating the needle and cast-off in theNational machines.

It will be observed that the rest 9 is arranged so that the pinchers mayoccupyfa substantially-vertical position above the base or lower portionof the supporting-.framepf the machine, the work-support beingsufficiently elevated above said base to. permit the handles of thepinchers to be freely moved in and out toward and from. the rest withoutstriking the base of the supporting-frame. j

The rest, arranged to support the pinchers as above described, is animportant element of the machine, it being necessary in most cases toexert a considerable degree of tension on the upper to properly draw itdown upon the last and to adjust it upon the lipf,

the described arrangement of the rest relatively to the work-support andstitch-forming mechanism enabling it to co-operatewith the pinchers veryeffectively in stretching and ad justing the upper.

It is new with me to combine with a worksupport and a presser-footadaptedto co-operate, as above described, in supporting and holding thelip onthe inner sole of a welted boot or shoe and the portion of theupper that bears thereon a rest adapted to support the fulcrum of a pairof pinchers. Hence I regard any rest that is arranged to perform thedescribed function as coming within the spirit of my invention.

An important feature of my improved machine is an automatic stop-motionarranged to automatically arrest the movement of the rock-shaft q, thatreciprocates the needlebar after the formation of each stitch, and whilethe needle is depressed below the work-sup-.

port. .There are manyorganized mechanisms knownasstop-inotiousfor-automatically disconnecting a driven shaft from theshaft that drives it and arresting the driven shaft at a given point inits rotation. I have shown in Figs. 9 and 10 asuitable type of automaticstopmotion for the present purpose. in said fi 'ures rrepresents thedriving-pulley,which is iotated by a belt runuiugfromasourceofpoweiya-nd is loosely mounted on a shaft r,which ishaft isjournaledin hearings on the 'frameof the machine, and when rotatedcommunicates mo-.

tion through the usual conneeting mech anism to the needle, cast-off,looper, and, resser-foot. The pulley 7' is provided ondt-s interior withaseries of ratchet-teeth; r which. are adapted to' engage with aspring-pressed tooth '7 adapted to slide onan arm 7"", which is rigidlyaffixed to the shaft 9". The tooth r is fitted to slide in a socketiuthe arm 0', and is norposit-ion.

mally pressed outwardly by a spring r into engagement with one of theratchet-teeth T The pulley 0 being continuously rotated, it will be seenthatwhen the tooth r is pressed outwardly and engaged with one of theteeth r of the pulley the motion of the pulley will be communicatedthrough the tooth r and arm 7' to the shaft 1', which in turn willcommunicate motion to the stitch-forming mechanism. r representsan-arm,.which is pivoted at 1, Fig. 1, to the supporting-frame of themachine, its upperend standing beside the pulley 'r and being movabletoward and from said pulley. The arm 0 is provided with a cam-shapedface r at its upperend, which is arranged'to come in contact with a pinit", ahixed to and projecting laterally from the movable tooth r saidcam-shaped face being so formed that when the pin 1 comes in contactwithastud upon it the tooth T will be reciprocated and withdrawn fromengagement with the tooth 'flwith which it was engage :1, the shaft rbeingthus disconnected from the pulley 0'. At the lower end of thecam-shaped face r the arm 7 is provided with a shoulder r which isformed to arrest the pin 7", and thus stop the rotation of the shaftarranged to be moved by the foot of the op- -ICO erator, the depressionof said treadle causing themovement of the arm 1" in the direction tothe left in Fig. 1. This movement with draws the arm 4" from contactwith the pin r and permits the spring r to force the tooth r outwardlyinto engagement with a tooth of the pulley 7", thus causing the pulleyto rotate the shaft -r. When the operatorreleases the treadle, thespring r restores the arm 7" to its normal position, so that when therotation of the shaft 1' brings the arm r to such position that the pin7' strikes the cam-shaped 7 face 0' of theleverr the tooth r is with-.drawn, as above described, after which the rotation of the shaft 0" isarrested by the shoulder 1"". The arrangement of the parts of thestop-motion and of the mechanism connecting the shaft 1" with theneedle-bar is such that the needle is depressed below the work when theshatt r is stopped. It

willbe seen, therefore, that the stitch-forming mechanism is caused tooperate by the movementofthe lever 4" caused by an act of th'eoperator,and is automatically stopped after the completion of a stitch by thelever r if the latter is allowed to return to its normal If, however,the operator holds the lever 1" out of its normal position, thestitchforming mechanism continues to operate so long as the lever r isso held. In stitching the upper to the lip f along the comparatively-straight portions at the sides of the sole the stitch-forming mechanismmay operate continuously without stopping; but at the moreabruptly-curved portions, particir larly at the toe, the operation ofuniting the upper to the lip is much more satisfactorily performed whenthe, stitch-forming mechanism stops after the formation of each stitch,the operator being thus given time to adjust the upper upon the lip andto properly arrange the plaits or folds of the upper which necessarilyexists at the toe portion in consequence of the gathering in of theedges of the upper. It is often necessary to raisethe presser-foot whilethe upper is being stretched and drawn to place at the toe, and then todepress the presser-foot to hold a plait or fold of the upper. This canonly be done properly when the stitchforming mechanism is at rest. I donot limit myself to the particular form of automatic stop motion hereshown, and may, use any other suitable mechanism which will accomplishthe same result.

Another important part of my invention is the provision of means forvarying the length of the stitches, so that the stitches may be madeshorter at the toe portion than at the sides of the sole, the work beingmore. satisfactorily performed when shorter stitches are made at the toethan are required at the side portions. To this end I provide anadjustable connection between the rock-shaft 0, that imparts thework-feeding movement to the needle-carrier 0 and the shaft 1'', fromwhich motion is imparted to said rock-shaft. Said adjustable connection,as 'shown in Figs. 1,3, and'4, comprises an arm 0 aflixed to therockshaft 0' and havinga slot o in its outer end, a hub or collar 0mounted to rock or oscillate on a suitable stud or support, which maybethe shaft q, an arm 0 affixedto said hub and having at its outer end atrundle-roll 0 engaged with a cam-groove o in a disk 0 aflixed to theshaft r, a shorter arm 0,affixed to the .hub o and provided with agroove 0 which extends through said arm and'across one end of the hub 0and a slide 0 fitted to move in the groove 0 and provided with a pin 0which projects from the arm 0 through the slot 0 in the arm 0 and isfitted to turn in a block 0 which is adapted to slide in the slot 0 Theslide 0 pin 0, and block o 'constitute an adjustable connection betweenthe arm 0.", which is oscillated in an unvarying path by the cam 0 andthe arm 0 which communicates motion to the rock-shaft 0'. By' movingsaid connection toward and from the center ofoscillation of the arm 0the extent of the rocking movement imparted to the rockshaft 0, andtherefore the extent of the oscillating movement imparted to theneedle-carrier by said rock-shaft, may be decreased or increased, saidmovement being decreased by moving the said sliding connection towardthe axis of the arm oand increased by moving said sliding connection inthe opposite direction;

o v represents a bell-crank lever mounted on the shaft '1" and adaptedto oscillate loosely thereon, one arm of ,said lever having a slot 0which receives a block 0 Fig. 4, through which the pin 0 passes. Theother arm of the lever 0 projects toward the front of the machine withinconvenient reach of the op,- erator and constitutes a handle, by whichthe operator may move said lever to effect a change in the position ofthe said sliding connection. The lever 0 may be held in either of two.or more positions by means of a spring-pressed pin or latch 0 Fig. 5,supported by the lever o and formed toengage one of a series of rebearon the inner side of the lip on the inner sole of a welted boot or shoe,a correspondingly-narrow presser-foot formed to bear on the upper at oneside of the edge of the in'-' ner sole and to hold the upper againstsaid lip, and a rest or hearing for the pinchers used to stretch andadjust the upper uponithe lip, as set forth.;

2. In a sewing-macliine-for lasting boots shoes, the combination ofi astitchforming mechanism, i'n-clndinga work-feeding needle,

an elevated narrow work-support formed to bear on the inner side of thelip on-the inner sole of a welted boot or shoe, a. correspondingly-narrow presser-foot form-ed to bear on the upper at one side ofthe edge of the inner sole and to hold the upper against said lip, arest or hearing for the pinchers used to stretch and adjust the upperupon the lip, and an automatic stop-motion.whereby the move ment' of theneedle is arrested after the formation of each stitch-to afford timeforthe 4 adjustment of the. upper by the pinchers, as

set forth.

3. In a sewing-machine for lasting boots or shoes, the combination ofthe stitch-forming mechanism,including a late'rally-movableneedle, anelevated narrow work-support located, mainly, at the inner side of theneedle, anda shield attached to the needle carrier and adapted to coverthe channel in the face of the inner sole, as set forth.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification, in thepresence of twosubscribing witnesses, thisl2th day of November, A; D.1891.

AUGUSTUS SEAVER. Witnesses:

' O. F. BROWN,

A. D. HARRISON.

